7 Days in Colombia - Medellín & Zona Cafetera

Welcome to our 7-day dive into one of the most vibrant and biodiverse countries in the world!

This itinerary begins in Medellín – a city that has emerged from its violent past with a burst of energy, enthusiasm, and true lust for life.

People from Medellín (aka paisas) are thrilled to be able to live their lives and better their city; Medellín is truly a Cinderella story. Just a few hours south, you’ll find enough incredible coffee fincas and eye-popping mountain scenery to keep you busy for days.

When Eve was in her backpacking days, her itineraries were loosely based on gut instinct and guidebook vibes – and they (almost) always worked out. But as parents, we know how important it is to have a plan. This guide blends structure with the freedom to customize, ensuring your family adventure hits all the right notes.

If you're wondering whether Colombia is safe, when to go, how to rent a car, what the roads are like, or how to get around, check out our Colombia Travel Overview. 

Got more than 7 days for Colombia? Lucky you! Check out our 10-day Guide or consider spending extra time on the Caribbean coast (hello, beach time) – check out our guide to Cartagena and the North. 

For now, let’s dive into an unforgettable 7-day route through this incredible country.

7-DAY COLOMBIA ITINERARY: QUICK PEEK

Days 1-4: Medellín (3 Nights)

Day Trip to Guatapé

Day 4: Travel to the Zona Cafetera

Days 4-7: Zona Cafetera (3 Nights)

Salento and the Valle de Cocora

Day 7: Return to Medellín (1 Night or Travel Home - & start planning your next trip!)

Day 1: Arrive in Medellín

Welcome to Medellín!

For many people, Medellín is synonymous with the terrible violence associated with Escobar’s reign of terror – for good reason as Medellín was for a time the murder capital of the world. We want to stress how incredible this city’s turnaround has been. After Escobar’s cartel was pushed out and the country’s leadership struck a deal with FARC, Medellín’s most creative minds got together to conceive of a fresh start. Everywhere we got the sense that people are so happy to have their city back after living under siege for so long. 

That’s not to say there aren’t still some parts of the city recovering, and of course there is widespread poverty. Check out our practical tips for staying safe(r) wherever you travel. Suffice it to say, we felt safe and happy to wander around with AJ and explore Medellín’s many cultural offerings. It’s a truly special city and hopefully it will only continue to grow and thrive.

The warm, spring-like weather year-round is a major bonus (pack light layers), and the city’s welcoming energy will leave a lasting impression on your family.

Getting to Medellín

You may be able to find a direct flight into Medellín, otherwise you can change planes in Bogotá. There are tons of flights heading between these airports every day.

• Main Airport: Most flights land at José María Córdova Airport, about 30–40 minutes from the city center.

• Smaller Airport: Some budget airlines, like EasyFly and Satena, operate out of Olaya Herrera Airport, much closer to downtown.

Getting Cash:

• Money: We grab some Colombian Pesos from an airport ATM (best rates) or use the currency exchange counter if we’ve brought cash.

Getting to Your Hotel

• Taxi: Use the official white taxis with blue stripes.

• Uber: Reliable and affordable. Double-check your pickup location in the app. Pickup is a short walk from the terminal taxi stands.
  

• Didi: Another ride-hailing app that works well here.
  

• Car Rental: Available at both airports. From the main airport, head over to baggage claim and exit the airport, then turn left to find the car rental center. See our full guide to renting a car in Colombia for details. If you want to rent a car, make sure your hotel has parking and be prepared to deal with some fairly significant city traffic, especially during rush hours.

  • You can also wait to rent a car until you’re heading out of town. The city’s metro transit system is fantastic. If you decide to wait on the car rental, you can rent a car from a rental location in the city center (check out Enterprise, Sixt, or Localiza’s downtown locations) on your way out of town. We did a one-way rental, so we were able to return the car in Pereira, minimizing backtracking.

Where to Stay in Medellín

We recommend the El Poblado neighborhood, an upmarket spot which – while outside the main tourist attraction area downtown – makes for a pleasant, slightly exurban stay. Some areas are nightlife-central, but overall, it was a good spot for families. 

Top Hotel Picks for Family Stays:

• Hotel Poblado Plaza: We enjoyed our stay at this fairly simple hotel in El Poblado. Great/easy parking and really yummy breakfast (so many veggies!).

• Diez Hotel Categoria Colombia: Well-decorated, funky hotel with amenities like a spa, rooftop terrace, and multiple restaurants on site.

• Airbnb Options: Plenty of family-friendly rentals are available in El Poblado, including options with kitchens and laundry facilities.

Getting Around Medellín

If you have your own rental car, you can brave the traffic and roundabouts – it’s not bad, just takes patience and attention, like driving in any major city. If you’re not used to having thousands of motorcycles and scooters flow around you like speeding schools of metal fish, you may want to choose one of our other recommendations.

Medellín’s public transportation system is one of the best in South America, with multiple ways to explore:

• Metro: Clean, efficient, and affordable. You’ll need a Cívica card, which can be purchased at metro stations. Keep cash on hand for the ticket counter clerk in case the machines aren’t working (a lesson we learned the hard way). The nearest ATM was in a mall five minutes away.

• Metrocable (Cable Cars): A highlight of the city, these aerial cable cars connect hillside neighborhoods to the metro system and offer breathtaking views.

• Uber/Didi: Best for convenience and flexibility when traveling with kids.

What to Do in Medellín

Medellín is packed with cultural attractions, unique neighborhoods, and family-friendly spots:

City Center Highlights

The city center holds the majority of the museums and churches to see in Medellín, while also being home to some truly sketchy streets. We drove down one in particular where suddenly the green, clean urban landscape turned into a scrap-metal den for the down-and-out. We live in LA, and honestly it felt fairly similar to streets around downtown Los Angeles and Skid Row.

It was more jarring than anything else; people looked like they were doing their best to get by and not trying to bother anyone. Through the middle of this chaotic scene, we also saw a well-dressed woman walking her pristinely groomed fluffy dog. So, keep your wits about you (and maybe take a different street if you’re walking) but don’t stress too much.

When you arrive, we recommend starting your mini-tour at the Plaza Botero. Medellín (and indeed, much of Colombia) is very proud of Fernando Botero, the sculptor and painter whose very distinctive rotund subjects are unmistakable. In fact, you’ve most likely seen his work before even if you didn’t realize it. Think very chubby children and notables, very chubby dogs and cats, very chubby fruit, very chubby everything. Strange fellow, but quite likeable!

• Plaza Botero: Home to 23 oversized bronze sculptures by Fernando Botero, gifted to his hometown.

• Museo de Antioquia: Adjacent to the plaza, a total unsung gem of a museum. We loved its mix of international art, lesser-known Botero works, and modern exhibits. It’s super well-curated, and all the works are displayed in an airy Art Deco building that’s a work of art itself. Grab a latté and a pastry in the cute coffee shop on the bottom floor before you leave.

• Nearby: Ermita de la Veracruz, the Catedral Metropolitana (built with 1.2 million bricks), the Parque Berrío, the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, and the Parque San Antonio.

A Bit North of City Center (but well worth it):

Jardín Botánico: An oasis amid the concrete jungle, the lush Jardín Botánico which boasts a major collection of plants and orchids in particular. Note: check out our recommended books; there’s a great section in Magdelena about this spot.

If you’re looking for something toddler or kid-friendly, check out the very fun, interactive Parque Explora nearby.

Cable Cars and Comuna 13

Medellín’s “metrocable” or cable car system is rightly praised as one of the city’s great, new innovations. The cable car system connects the populous hillside barrios with the main city, linking people to the workforce who were previously cut off by geography.

• Cable Cars: Ride the K and J lines to see the city from above.

• Comuna 13 Tour: Once one of Medellín’s most dangerous neighborhoods, Comuna 13 is now a vibrant hub of street art and community pride. Join a local-guided tour to learn about its inspiring transformation.

• Parque Arví: This nature reserve is located at the very end of the long metrocable L line, and honestly the breathtaking journey is more than half the fun.

How to Get to Parque Arví

We took the metro from the Poblado station to Acevedo, then took the metrocable K line three stops to Santo Domingo, where we finally caught the L line. You ride this all the way through the communas and over an incongruous, beautiful forest to the end of the line: Parque Arví.

Before going, we read that some visitors find the park a little underwhelming and it’s true; this isn’t the most incredible nature reserve you’ll ever visit. But to us, that was beside the point. The journey was so unique and fun, and we loved how much pride the staff took in the Arví.

All of the nature walks were kid-friendly, and there were two different spots to get drinks and lunch (we had a really good hamburger). All in all, a unique and different way to explore the city!

Additional Family-Friendly Sites in Medellín

• Parque Explora: An interactive science park with an aquarium and hands-on exhibits, perfect for kids.

• Pueblito Paisa: A charming replica of a traditional Antioquian village with stunning city views.

Where to Eat in Medellín

Check out our cheat sheet on Colombian cuisine for a food-obsessed overview of the country's flavors, staples, and signature dishes.

In El Poblado

• Pergamino Café: Good coffee and Colombian twists on breakfast and brunch classics.

• Ajiacos y Mondongos: Get your traditional feasting on at this cheap, high-quality spot. Mondongo is tripe soup… some love it, some hate it. If you’re a mondongo lover, you’ve got to visit Mondongo’s restaurant – for obvious reasons.

• Il Forno: Satisfy your Italian craving with nice pizza and pasta.

• Carmen: If you can manage with the kids, this upscale restaurant is innovative and delicious. We’re a little traumatized by it because it was the site of AJ’s biggest meltdown to date, but the food was still yummy! Book ahead. 

• Náufrago Bar: This rooftop bar boasts delicious, creative cocktails and a beautiful view of the city. We came up early with AJ to enjoy a drink and watch the sun set before the cool kids arrived.

• Sambombi Bistro Local: Gorgeous and creative Colombian cuisine. Book ahead.

• La Chagra: Creative pick focusing on indigenous ingredients and traditional recipes reimagined for a modern city.

In the City Center

• Hacienda Junín: Great place to try classic Colombian dishes in a relaxed environment. Beware the stairs for strollers, but the staff kindly helps out!

• Hatoviejo: Another excellent option offering a similar respite from the hubbub of the center. 

WS&T Healthier Food Picks: Try Hummus Fusión for Mediterranean or Azai Praia Lovers via Primavera for gluten free/vegan options.

Day 3: Day Trip to Guatapé

After spending the day in Medellín, you might be hooked and want to keep exploring. But if you’re ready to get outside the city, consider a day trip to Guatapé, a colorful lakeside town about 2 hours from Medellín. 

Guatapé is a gem of a small town located about two hours from Medellín. You can either drive your rental car or you can easily organize transport from your hotel or find a driver service (e.g. on Viator). It’s a popular day-trip, so getting there should be straightforward. Keep in mind that it can get crowded on weekends. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can take a 2-hour bus from Medellín’s north station.

Guatapé looks like a picture postcard (that’s Olde English for Insta-worthy) with its colorfully painted “zócalos” or house panels.

Wandering the town will provide no shortage of lovely views and picture spots. Check out the beautiful central Parque Principal, then head east on the Calle del Comercio (Calle 31). You’ll take the stairs across from #29-9 to the Plazoleta de los Zócalos and enjoy the painted houses all the way to the waterfront. Calle de Recuerdo (Carretera 28) is also a good street to walk down.

The Lake: You can take a 3-hour tour of the lake (afternoons during the week, anytime on weekends) by heading to the waterfront, where there will be a range of companies hawking their cruises. Lake View Hostel also offers a lake tour with a stop at the mostly-submerged El Peñon church. 

The Rock: The 200-meter Piedra del Peñol towers over Guatapé. It’s a wild sight from the ground, but the adventuresome can climb 649 stairs for an incredible all-around view of the city. If you decide to wear baby up the Rock, you’re a rock… star.

Healthy, delicious food options are plentiful in this town: La Fogata, Guatacrep’, and 

Pizzeria de Luigi are some great choices.

Highlights:

• Piedra del Peñol: Climb the 649 steps of this massive rock for jaw-dropping views.

• The Town: Known for its vibrant zócalos (decorative house panels) and charming streets.

• The Lake: Take a boat tour to see the submerged El Peñon church.

What’s Next?

On Day 4, you’ll leave from Medellín and head to the stunning Zona Cafetera, Colombia’s coffee-growing heartland.

Days 4–7: Zona Cafetera – Colombia’s Coffee Triangle (3 Nights)

Welcome to the Zona Cafetera, a lush, green paradise and Colombia’s “Coffee Triangle,” surrounding the towns of Manizales, Pereira, and Salento where the majority of Colombia’s famous coffee is grown.

It has a great mix of outdoor activities, delicious food (hello trout!), and generally excellent vibes. 

Getting to the Zona Cafetera from Medellín

For travelers seeking flexibility and freedom, renting a car in Medellín is an excellent way to explore Colombia’s famed coffee region. Be sure to check out our comprehensive guide to renting a car in Colombia for tips on driving regulations, insurance options, and more. You can pick up your rental right at the airport or opt for a convenient city-center location.

We chose a one-way rental ourselves, dropping the car off in Pereira before catching a flight back to Bogotá—an easy way to avoid unnecessary backtracking. Depending on your final destination, the drive from Medellín to the Zona Cafetera can take several hours. Manizales is about four hours from El Poblado, while Salento is roughly five.

Road conditions are generally good, with newly constructed expressways helping you navigate the mountainous terrain with ease. When we last drove in December 2024, a few temporary detours did funnel us onto single-lane roads, but the ongoing improvements suggest an even smoother ride in the very near future.

If you prefer not to drive, there are frequent flights from Medellín to Pereira, Armenia, or Manizales, the three main cities in the region.

Where to Stay in Zona Cafetera

We highly recommend finding a coffee finca to either visit or spend the night. We spent the night at the lovely Hacienda Venecia, a beautiful spot with incredible plant and bird life and a host of different activities.

You pay a little extra to include your meals (many of these fincas are far from any other food options) and you can choose from a range of different activities and tours around the property, like coffee tours and tastings (with the option to have the tours in English). Fun for kids and non-coffee drinkers too. 

Tours explore the country’s history and cultivation of premium coffee, demonstrate the harvest process, and ultimately culminate in a brewing experience. You don’t have to be an adult to enjoy the beautiful nature in which these gorgeous places are nestled.

• Hacienda Venecia (Outside Manizales): A stunning coffee farm with guided tours, birdwatching, and delicious communal meal events. The perfect mix of relaxation and education!

• Hacienda Guayabal (South Chinchiná): A smaller coffee farm offering hands-on tours and rustic charm.

• Hotel el Ocaso (Salento): A boutique option with breathtaking nature views and family-friendly amenities.

Another worthy side trip is the Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados. Check out Páramo Trek or Adeguidas Caldas for information on organizing a guide.

Explore Salento and the Valle de Cocora

Salento is a small, walkable, and colorful town that feels like it’s been plucked straight from a storybook and perched on a hilltop. Wander through the vibrant streets, enjoy trout cooked a dozen ways (yes, a dozen), and take in the mountain views.

• Willy Jeeps: Hop into one of the iconic jeeps in Salento’s main plaza for fun rides all over the region.

• Valle de Cocora Hike: This breathtaking valley is home to Colombia’s national tree, the towering wax palm. Choose between the shorter 3-mile mirador hike or the full 8.5-mile loop (detailed tips below) that’s not for the faint of heart.

Where to Stay in Salento

Stay within walking distance of the plaza and you can’t go wrong. We stayed at this very cool Airbnb right at the edge of town – and a block from the best chocolate T thinks he’s ever had – where we got beautiful, green mountain views while still being in the city.

We were also in Salento during Halloween and let me tell you – watching the costumed local kids trick or treat around town was just about the cutest thing ever. 

Everything You Need to Know about the Valle de Cocora Hike

The biggest attraction near Salento, Valle de Cocora is located about a 30-minute picturesque drive from the village. The Valle is the home of the epically tall and skinny wax palms – and the inspiration for the valley in Disney’s Encanto. 

Whether you opt for a shorter “mirador” hike or tackle the full loop, you’re in for an unforgettable experience. Keep in mind that this region sits at high altitude—between 8,500 to 9,300 feet (2,600–2,800 m)—so pace yourself if you’re not used to hiking in thinner air.

The long hike is not for the faint of heart – the combination of distance, elevation, one-person-at-a-time cable bridges, occasional muddy spots, and altitude can be demanding.

If you're up for it, check out our super detailed guide to everything you need to know about the Valle de Cocora hike!

If you read that and think, "NO WAY ARE WE DOING THAT HIKE. ARE YOU CRAZY? WHAT ELSE CAN WE DO?" Here are some other options:

Nature Reserves and Bird-watching

Zona Cafetera is a haven for nature lovers.

• Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados: A stunning national park featuring snow-capped peaks and lush páramo landscapes. Guided tours are a must for safety.

• Reserva Río Blanco (Manizales): Ideal for birdwatching, with a chance to spot toucans, hummingbirds, and more.

  
  

Top Eats in Salento:

The region’s culinary offerings are just as impressive as its landscapes. Trout is the local specialty, often served with fried plantains and rice.

• Los Amigos: Simple but delicious trout dishes.

• Bernabé: A cozy spot with an eclectic menu and great coffee.

• La Eliana: Curry and international dishes with a Colombian twist.

Optional Adventure: Hot Springs in Santa Rosa de Cabal

If you’re looking to unwind, visit the cloudy Termales thermal hot springs in Santa Rosa de Cabal. Surrounded by a towering waterfall and lush greenery, it’s about 14km from Pereira.

What’s Next?

On Day 7, you’ll head back to Medellín for one more night or to begin your journey home. 

Or, if you’re lucky enough to have extra time, consider extending your trip to Cartagena or the Caribbean Coast.

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