Touring the Caribbean Coast: Cartagena to Santa Marta
- Trevor Lawrence
- Jan 26
- 10 min read
Updated: Apr 12
The Craziest Road Trip in the Country? Here's a Serious Contender.
If you begin your Colombian journey in Bogotá, traveling to the Caribbean Coast and Cartagena can feel like be transported into a completely different world.
Much of Colombia is framed by three sweeping branches of the Andean Mountains, where rolling countryside is dotted with sprawling ranches and tiny farms. To say nothing of the towering volcanoes and foggy mountain passes. Life feels quieter, the vibe more laid back. Even Bogotá, with its brisk metropolitan pace feels more like the working-class cities with which most of us are familiar.
But as you make your way to the north, the vibe shifts entirely. The heat and humidity wrap around you, and the Afro-Caribbean culture paints the streets with music, vibrant colors, and an irresistible energy.
Ready to dive into Colombia’s tropical side? Check out our WS&T Flash Trip: 3 Days in Cartagena guide first. If you can’t get enough of that sea air, coconut fish stew, and edge-of-the-continent excitement, read on for some of our recommended stops along Colombia’s Caribbean Coast!
IN THIS ARTICLE YOU'LL FIND...
Practicals for the Caribbean Coast (Cartagena to Santa Marta)
Weather: Tropical and humid. Pack sunscreen (kids 6 mos and up), water, and lightweight clothing.
Driving: Roads can be wild, so stay cautious and follow local traffic habits.
Safety: Stick to main routes and avoid driving after dark.
Kids: Many locations aren’t stroller-friendly, but locals are very accommodating to families. It's completely second nature in this culture.
When to Visit the Caribbean Coast
Like most of Colombia, the Caribbean Coast goes through a rainy season. We found that even during rainy season, thunderstorms tend to occur once a day (like a big storm in the afternoon) and didn’t put much of a damper on our trip – perfect for a family siesta time!
How to Visit the Caribbean Coast
As always, we love a good road trip at WS&T, and the freedom of a rental car is unbeatable, especially on a stretch of Caribbean coast from Cartagena to Santa Marta. Renting a car offers freedom of movement and an easy place to feed your baby, as well as a one-of-a-kind view of the country you drive through.
Road Trip Options
Cartagena to Santa Marta: Take Route 90A to Barranquilla and then Route 90 to Santa Marta. This 4.5-hour journey will restock your supply of wild driving stories (more on that later).
One-Way Drive: Fly into Santa Marta, rent a car, and drive west to Cartagena. This avoids repeating the same drive.
WS&T Tip: Rental companies should warn you how seriously this part of the country takes its speed limits. Locals say the same thing. Speed cameras are every 10-15km. Pay attention to the truckers who drive the route day in and day out. Sudden braking isn’t random.
Why Is This Road Trip the Craziest in Colombia?
The Cartagena-Santa Marta route is not for the faint of heart.
Speed Traps Galore: Some cameras are real; others are either decoys or non-functioning early models.
Truck Shenanigans: Local truck drivers speed, brake hard at cameras, and even double-pass (yes, they’ll overtake each other using the shoulder). Stay alert and do not play follow-the-leader.
Time-Honored Police Bribery: Unless you’re better at blending in than us in a rental car, odds are 50/50 you’ll be pulled over for "speeding" and shaken down for a few dollars. Read our story about this, and get tips for staying cool and negotiating your way through your standard traffic stop in Colombia.
Unforgettable Sights: Thousands of Great Egrets in the mangroves. Towns where time seems to have stood still. Stretches of roadway with water on both sides. Beautiful geography and pockets of intense poverty.
Special mention goes to the roadside performers. We discovered some novel ways of earning a living!
In one town, the roadway was filled with groups of young men dancing in wacky drag (think wigs, coconut bras, polyester dresses) who would literally block your car from continuing until you paid them.
We were so entertained that we paid one group, but when we saw that about 5 more groups lay ahead, we followed the truckers’ lead and began slaloming around them.
You Haven't Talked Me Out of This Road Trip. Okay, let's get into it!
Top Destinations on Colombia's Caribbean Coast
Barranquilla
Barranquilla might not charm at first glance, but its Carnival in March is legendary. Most of the year, it’s a very hot, staid city without a great deal to attract visitors – though there are some great food stops, which makes the city a decent stopping point on your drive.
Quick Stops:
Paseo Bolivar’s bustling market stalls
Iglesia de San Nicolás de Tolentino
Museo Romántico (quirky and open Thurs-Sun, 1 PM-6 PM)
WS&T Tip: The city center area attractions (museums and food stalls) are in a densely trafficked area. Parking is very hit-and-miss, and driving gets thoroughly congested to the point that you can easily get stuck behind trucks loading and unloading. We advise finding parking outside this district and walking.
Where to Eat in Barranquilla:
Barranquilla offers a mouth-watering mix of Indigenous, Caribbean, Middle Eastern (especially Lebanese), and Spanish influences in its cuisine.
Arabe Gourmet: Our healthy pick. Lebanese cuisine!
Narcobollo: Don’t miss the bollo costeño buns
Cucayo: A colorful spot for local fare
Manuel Restaurante: Upscale dining with Colombian-European fusion
Check out our cheat sheet on Colombian cuisine for a food-obsessed overview of the country's flavors, staples, and signature dishes.
Santa Marta
Continuing across the coast, you’ll next hit Colombia’s oldest city, Santa Marta. It’s a charming port city with a cobblestoned old town. We felt like it was on the upswing and could become a major destination. In any case, it’s a great base for exploring the surrounding attractions, like Minca and the Parque Nacional Tayrona.
Navigating the city is a bit confusing, even by GPS. Port traffic has a huge impact on layout, so you might feel like you’re making a strange loop through portions of your route.
Where to Stay in Santa Marta:
If you stay in or near the Centro Histórico, Santa Marta is quite walkable. Parking is abundant. Beautiful colonial era buildings are sandwiched by modern high rises and hotels.
Casa Carolina: A boutique hotel with a pool and on-site dining
Alko Hotel Cotona: Modern, with breakfast included
Airbnb options are plentiful, especially in the Centro Histórico
Where to Eat in Santa Marta:
Lulo: Great breakfast spot. Don’t miss the “ranchera” arepa
Ouzo: Pricier Greek and Caribbean fusion with excellent pizza
Restaurante Lamart: A Seafood stew to die for
La Canoa Café Cultural: Massive paninis and sumptuous sea bass
What to Do in Santa Marta:
Wander the lively Centro Histórico for a collision of street vendors, ruins of colonial-era mansions, and pounding music
Catedral de Santa Marta
Museo del Oro Tairona offers a small but vibrant collection of gold and other indigenous artifacts, housed in the beautifully converted historic Customs House.
About 6 km outside of Santa Marta, you'll find a unique attraction:
Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, Simon Bolívar’s final home
This place was remarkably interesting. The rambling hacienda was home to Spanish doctor Pedro Alejandrino, who offered sanctuary to Simon Bolívar in 1830. Bolivar – now the hero of the people whose name adorns every plaza from Cartagena to Cali – was then sick, disillusioned, and hated by the very people he sought to unite (and rule over, hence the about-face). Bolívar ended up dying in this hacienda, which is now essentially frozen in time.
The large grounds house the hacienda outbuildings – which are being reclaimed by the jungle – and the better-preserved main house. The grounds are dotted with astonishing giant green and orange iguanas – make sure to say hi.
In the back of the property, you’ll also find a very large art museum dedicated to modern South American visual artists, along with a towering stone memorial.
We really enjoyed road tripping to the audio book Magdalena by Wade Davis. If you want to learn more about the fascinating life of Simon Bolívar, check out our article on his life and legacy. If you want a truly deep dive, check out Bolívar by Marie Arana for more about this fascinatingly complex man.
Beach Options
If you really want a beach fix, check out the city’s favorite beach resort of El Rodadero. It’s filled with local families and vendors and not exactly relaxing, but it is a great way to get some sand between your toes and feel like a local.
Playa Blanca is much more relaxing – and beautiful. It’s also quite popular, so arrive early and grab yourself a cabana and a papaya juice.
Parque Nacional Tayrona
45-minutes outside of Santa Marta lies the beautiful coastal wilderness of the Parque Nacional Tayrona. It’s famous for its beautiful beaches and protected marine paradise. You can visit several beaches and/or hike within the park.
You tend to access the park via the land entrance at El Zaíno OR by boat, usually from Taganga.
Tips for Visiting:
Arrive early: Visitor numbers are capped at 6,900 daily.
Bring cash: Entry fees are COP 68,500 (high season) or COP 57,500 (low season).
Check closure dates: The park typically closes for a month in January or February.
Vaccinate: Proof of a yellow fever vaccine may be required. E had a small reaction to her Yellow Fever vaccine, while T didn’t. These vaccines are surprisingly expensive. To learn more, check out our article on Travel Immunizations.
WS&T Tip: Want an easier option? Many hotels in Santa Marta, like Casa Carolina, organize boat trips to the park.
Ciudad Perdida
Another major excursion in this part of Colombia is the 5-day trek to the Ciudad Perdida, or Lost City. We weren’t ready for this with baby yet, but we know some adventuresome families who have done this guided trip with kiddos!
The Caribbean Coast’s Mountainous Gem: Minca
Just 45-minutes south of the stifling coastal climate lies mountainy Minca, an oasis nestled alongside a small, lively river. With tons of birds and backpacker-friendly eateries, the little town boasts nearby coffee farms, swimming holes and waterfalls, and a pleasant respite from the heat.
Note: all of these destinations can be accessed by motorcycle taxi (available in the center of town) but if you have kids, you likely won’t want to choose this option since they don’t provide helmets.
Top Five Things to do in Minca
1. Enjoy a Great Meal
The Lazy Cat: A Minca institution with a tranquil terrace and genuinely good food. This was one of the many restaurants where our server actually asked to hold AJ while we ate – and managed to get her to stop being fussy in a heartbeat!
Duni: Another great spot for a delicious, healthy meal.
La Miga: An excellent French bakery with delicious pastries and breads.
2. Visit Pozo Azul
Overview: One of Minca’s lovely waterfalls, featuring a gorgeous natural pool surrounded by thick forest.
Getting There:
Hike: An easy 2-mile (3.25 km) walk from Minca.
Drive: A bumpy road leads to a designated parking area, followed by a 15-minute walk to the falls.
What to Do:
Swim in the shallower lower basin (kid-friendly!) or cross the river and climb a rocky path for about 10 minutes to reach the deeper upper basin.
Continue another 15 minutes on the same path to find a more hidden pool. This one doesn’t have its own waterfall, but it’s usually far less crowded.
3. Las Cascadas de Marinka (Marinka Waterfalls)
Overview: A more adventurous waterfall experience a few kilometers north of Minca.
Hike Details:
It’s about 2.5 miles (4 km) from the center of Minca, starting just east of the bridge.
Walk down Carrera 5a (passing Minca’s white church) until you reach the unpaved Cerro Kennedy Oriente road. Follow this for roughly 3.5 km.
At the fork with the big Marinka sign, head left and climb uphill briefly—you’re there!
Facilities & Fees:
Admission is COP 10,000 per person, which includes access to bathrooms/locker rooms and hammocks.
There’s a lower pool and an upper pool to explore, plus an on-site restaurant.
Can get crowded in peak season, so arrive early!
4. Hacienda La Victoria
Overview: A picturesque coffee farm just outside Minca.
Getting There:
Hike for about 2 hours or drive. Depending on the season, you might need to park before reaching the finca and walk the last stretch of rough road.
If it’s extremely muddy, you can book a 4x4 in town.
What to Expect:
English-language coffee tours (COP 25,000) last about an hour and cover the entire coffee-making process.
Relax afterward with a coffee and snack at the on-site Victoria café.
5. Soak in the Local Atmosphere
Craft Shops & Souvenirs: Minca’s little town center has a handful of craft shops where you can pick up souvenirs.
Relax at Your Jungle Hostel: Sometimes the best part is simply hanging out at your hostel, enjoying the views and the laid-back vibe.
Where to Stay in Minca
Accommodations in Minca tend to be fairly rustic, popular among backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts. Also note that roads outside the main town can be quite rough—practically off-roading. We drove a mini-SUV (shoutout Renault Logan!) and managed fine on the muddy roads by taking it slow. Locals do it in small sedans, so it’s definitely doable, but be prepared.
You can also visit Minca on a day trip from Santa Marta. But if you’d like to stay overnight, here are a few options:
Chunuu Hostal y Glamping Minca
The photos make it look pretty crazy. A fun, quirky hostel with multi-bed rooms. In the off-season, it’s pretty quiet. That’s when we went. But in high season, this seems like an ideal place to connect with travelers and swap stories. Rooms are spread over a terraced hillside, just over a beautiful clear-water creek.
It’s a twisty, bumpy ride from Minca’s town center, so keep your map open and look out for the small Chunuu signs.
Rio Elemento Ecolodge
Simple and friendly, closer to the town center.
Has a pool—perfect for a hot day!
Masaya Casas Viejas
A stunning property offering tours and activities directly on-site.
Has a pool and modern-cozy rooms.
About 30 minutes from Minca by car and might be inaccessible by standard vehicle depending on the season. Contact them for road conditions. You may need to park in Minca and take a 4x4.
WHERE TO NEXT?
We hope you’ve enjoyed your trip down the weird and wonderful Caribbean Coast! Looking for more Colombian adventures? Check out our guides to Bogotá, Medellín, and beyond!
Beating the Heat in the Tropics? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children.
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