The Best Places to Eat in Oaxaca City
- evesymington
- Apr 7
- 10 min read
Updated: Apr 12
LET'S EAT! This is one of our favorite topics because Oaxacan food is just so good. Make sure you eat at every possible opportunity to maximize how many dishes you can try!
Quick Guide to Oaxacan Flavors
Want a quick snapshot of what makes Oaxacan food unforgettable? Here’s your go-to cheat sheet:
Mole – Rich, complex sauces made with chiles, nuts, and sometimes chocolate. Oaxaca boasts an amazing variety (way more than the classic 7 moles you’ll hear about!).
Tlayudas – Oaxaca’s answer to pizza: a giant, crispy tortilla piled with beans, cheese, and meats.
Memelas – Thick, chewy corn cakes topped with lard, beans, and cheese—simple, yet incredibly satisfying.
Tetelas – Triangular masa pockets stuffed with beans and cheese, then grilled to perfection.
Chapulines – Crunchy, spiced grasshoppers that add an extra pop of flavor and texture. Try them!
Tasajo & Cecina – Thin cuts of air-dried beef and marinated pork, grilled for smoky goodness.
Barbacoa – Slow-roasted meat (often goat or lamb) cooked underground for maximum tenderness.
Caldo de Res – A hearty beef soup with chiles and fresh vegetables.
Tejate – A frothy, ancient cacao and maize drink, known as “the drink of the gods.”
Mezcal – The smoky, complex spirit of Oaxaca, made from roasted agave and sipped slowly to savor every note.
If you're wondering what on earth all of these dishes are, or you want to know more (so much more!) head over to our deep dive on Oaxacan cuisine to learn about all the incredible things you’re about to taste.
And if you're wondering how on earth you're going to eat all of this with a baby or toddler in tow, read this!
IN THIS ARTICLE YOU'LL FIND...
Best Places to Eat in Oaxaca: Breakfasts and Cafés
So, let's say you're down to your final day and you'd like to go out with a bang. What are the absolute best breakfast spots in Oaxaca? (Notice I couldn't pick one).
LA ATOLERIA MASEA: Atol is a traditional Mesoamerican beverage made from corn masa, water, and spices, often sweetened with sugar or piloncillo. Grab a pastry from next door and sample a variety of flavors from the bubbling terracotta pots at cozy La Atoleria.
LAS CHIMOLERAS: Super creative takes on chilaquiles, with great veg options.
EL TENDAJON: Pancakes. Need we say more? Check out the lunch/dinner section to see this delicious restaurant again!
ANCESTRAL COCINA TRADICIONAL: Ancestral serves up local favorites you won’t find just anywhere—like tetelas, delicious triangle-shaped tortilla pockets stuffed with black beans, quesillo, and your choice of meat or veggies. Tucked away in Xochimilco, Ancestral feels like a little oasis.
CHEPICHE CAFÉ: Try Mexican breakfast staples or American classics at this yummy spot.
A.M. SIEMPRE CAFÉ: This cozy, creative spot serves up poached eggs in chapulín sauce, goat cheese omelets, homemade avocado toast, or bagels served six ways. So good.
PAN:AM OAXACA: Pan:Am has two locations—one near Santo Domingo Church in the city center and a larger one in Reforma to the northeast. Their breakfast and lunch menu puts a creative twist on Mexican classics, like huevos divorciados made with nopales. Sandwiches also highlight traditional flavors, like house-roasted pork leg in adobo on sourdough, alongside options like a hummus and veggie sandwich (with an optional bacon add-on for a fun twist). Each meal comes with a choice of potatoes or a house salad.
CAFÉ BRÚJULA: There are several locations of this excellent coffee spot which boasts dope sugar cookies, great smoothies, and many pastries.
BOULENC: You’ll feel very sophisticated in this delicious bakery/café. Great coffee, yummy pastries, and delicious sandwiches and salads. So many bread things! You’ll love it.
RUPESTRE PAN Y CAFÉ: This spot has one of Xochimilco’s coziest patios, complete with a massive, shady ciruela tree. Order a coffee and dig into their daily hotcakes or a classic like salsa de huevos with tostadas for dipping—or go all in with a plate of chilaquiles!
Must-See Mercados
MERCADO ORGANICO LA COSECHA: The street is where the action is, making food markets like this some of the best places to eat in Oaxaca. Perfect spot for a laid-back, lively breakfast. With around ten food stalls to choose from, you can mix and match dishes or go full tapas-style with friends. Expect all the Oaxacan breakfast favorites—chilaquiles, tamales, memelas, and, of course, rich, traditional hot chocolate.
BENITO JUÁREZ MARKET: This is one of the best spots in the city to find tejate, a favorite drink of Oaxacans which is made from dried mamey seeds. It’s slightly sweet and foamy with a melony taste; it’s a must-try. Each tejate maker in the market is working from a generations’-old recipe, so sample a few!Another great stop in Benito Juárez Market is Casilda’s. The family’s aguas frescas stand has been a Mercado Benito Juárez staple for over a century, serving classic horchata and refreshing chilacayota juice made from seasonal squash. Their horchata comes with melon chunks and pecans, with other tasty versions featuring guava, chia, or peach. The best flavors sell out fast, so be sure to stop by before noon!
MERCADO 20 DE NOVIEMBRE: In the “pasillo de humo” (Smoke Alley) of the 20 de Noviembre market, you’ll find butchers alongside big, fragrant grills. You choose your meat selection and then the stall owners prepare it for you to order. Enjoy your carne asada or chorizo with a variety of salsas, guacamole, and roasted veggies. Sprinkle some chapulines on top for extra crunch!
Fun fact: the 20th of November marks the anniversary of the start of the Mexican Revolution in 1910.
Best Street Food
You’d be hard-pressed to find a bad meal in Oaxaca, especially in the various markets and outdoor stalls that pepper the city. Wander around sampling a taco here, a memela there, and you might just find that hidden gem.
Here were some of the best (our favorites) street food spots in Oaxaca:
MERCADO DE LA MERCED: This was our first stop when we arrived in Oaxaca ready to eat. We loved the mole tamales at Lety’s Tamales and the big traditional meals at Fonda Florecita.
MEMELAS DOÑA VALE: In the heart of Oaxaca’s Abastos Market, Memelas Doña Vale is a bright blue stand serving some of the city’s most famous memelas. Doña Vale’s handmade corn tortillas, with their signature pinched edges, hold a variety of toppings, but the real stars are her two incredible salsas—one smoky and dark with chile morita, the other a bold mix of red tomato and green chile. Grab a few memelas and add grilled tasajo, eggs, or pork ribs for the full experience.
MEMELES SAN AGUSTIN: This was another incredible spot for memeles. E could have eaten her weight in these little delights – similar to arepas and piled with beans, cheese, meat, or whatever you choose.
TACOS ROY: Everything we tried here was delicious, but they specialize in tacos al vapor.
TACOS DE COMAL PLAZA DEL CARMEN: This is an institution! The hours are unpredictable, but if you manage to hit this spot while it’s open, you won’t be disappointed. Try the empanadas de amarillo and tacos de chile relleno, all cooked on the traditional Oaxacan clay comal.
CHEFINITA: Chefinita, named after its founder Josefina, is famous for its rich pozole, served alongside crispy tostadas with guacamole. The menu also features tasty pork tacos and tostadas, plus a legendary (extra spicy) salsa kept in a purple container. Open from dusk until early morning, it’s the perfect late-night stop after a mezcal-filled night.
TACOS DE CARMEN: Arrive early to indulge in a tlayuda, taco, quesadilla, memela, or anything else corn-and-meat-based. They also have some nice veggie options here, like mushroom quesadillas or zucchini flower tacos.
TORTAS LA HORMIGA: Right on the corner of Jardin Conzatti, you’ll find these loaded tortas with any fillings you can imagine, including breakfast versions. We love the pickled veggies on top too. Picnic in the park!
EL LECHONITO DE ORO: Stand in line for a suckling pig torta (ask for crunchy chicharrón on top!) add some green salsa and enjoy! Then go take a nap.
CANGREBURGUER: If you want a not-so-healthy but wild and delish street meal, try the hamburguesa here. Somehow the burger comes with cheese, a hot dog (!), ham, pineapple, L&T, and jalapeño peppers. ¡Buena suerte!
Where to Go for Lunch or Dinner
We have reordered our Best List for Lunch & Dinner no less than ten times. Every time we try to set it in stone, a savory memory comes bubbling to the surface and completely upsets the candied apple cart. Thank God for digital ink. So, here they are: the definitive best (our favorites) lunch and dinner joints in Oaxaca.
LEVADURA DE OLLA: We came for dinner and loved it so much, we returned for lunch. Everything is a gorgeous blend of traditional, heritage dishes with innovative flair. We loved the tamales and shrimp guava mole, but we could have ordered anything on the menu and been so happy.
TLAYUDAS DOÑA FLAVIA: There are great tlayudas to be had all over town, but here you can enjoy a colorful atmosphere while munching on an extra-large “Oaxacan calzone.” Be brave and try the chapulines option!
RESTAURANTE CORONITA: This is the lobby restaurant for the Hotel Coronita, whose faded beauty feels nostalgic. Beware the odd hours – they close early so we ended up coming for lunch. The star of the menu here is the “seven mole tasting,” an absolute treat which brings you around Oaxaca via seven of its most distinctive moles. From the spicy sweetness of the fruit-forward moles to the rich, dark chocolaty goodness of the mole negro, this will be a true experience. Come very hungry!
EL TENDAJON: Enjoy a classy dinner at this simple yet sophisticated spot. In typical Oaxaca City fashion, the chef gives a modern spin to timeless dishes. Try the octopus carnitas tacos and a michelada!
TERRAZA ISTMO: This adorable spot is the rooftop restaurant of the Hotel Casa Abuela Maria. Here, you can enjoy traditional Oaxacan dishes with cute décor and a great view. We loved the granachas, molotes de plátano, and sopa de guías, all specialties of the Isthmus region of Oaxaca. The cocktails are delicious too!
TACO SIRENO: For a more casual, hip meal, try the fresh seafood at Taco Sireno. We loved the oysters (paired with a michelada, of course), aguachile de camarón, scallop tostada, and the very decadent house specialty: shrimp grilled cheese.
CRIOLLO: It’s worth a trip outside the city center to this modern “food lab” from two of Oaxaca’s most badass chefs. Criollo is a cozy Oaxacan restaurant in a beautiful colonial mansion with a big courtyard. The six-course menu changes daily but always features classic Oaxacan flavors. Dishes like tamales, tostadas, moles, and stuffed chiles are made with a fresh, modern touch and served with great Mexican wine, mezcal, and craft beer.
NIEVES LA OAXAQUEÑA: This is a true classic, and a favorite among Oaxacans who often celebrate birthdays, graduations, or family events here.
You eat classic dishes around a big central courtyard, where we were lucky enough to see a traditional dance performance during dinner. One of the traditional dances involved a young man dancing around a woman as she elaborately laid an egg...
Favorite Bars in Oaxaca City
I don't know about you, but vibe and ambiance make everything taste better. There's no easy way to pick favorite bars and nightspots in Oaxaca. Something new is always popping up, and the classics stick with you like aged rum poured over freshly muddled fruits. Alas, we've homed in on our current favorites. What are the best (our favorites) bars and nightspots in Oaxaca? Let's shake 'em out...
SELVA: Selva means jungle, and stepping into this cocktail bar above Los Danzantes restaurant feels like entering another world. The vibe is lush and immersive, with a menu inspired by local Oaxacan ingredients traditionally used for healing. Expect bold aromas, rich flavors, and plenty of mezcal-forward cocktails.
MEZCALERIA IN SITU: Ulises Torrentera’s mezcal library is the spot to taste and learn about Oaxaca’s signature spirit. With over 180 mezcals, you might even catch Ulises himself pouring and sharing his expertise. This tiny gem on bustling Morelos Street is just a short walk from downtown hotels—grab a tasting, a bottle, or just sip a glass à la carte!
FLORERIA MACARENA: This spot is a true hidden gem – a flower shop by day and a tiny, vibey cocktail bar by night. We loved our carefully crafted cocktails and Shazamed like every song they played!
MEZCALOTECA: Mezcaloteca is like a mezcal library, offering curated tastings led by passionate experts. They’ll walk you through some rare and classic mezcals, giving you a deeper appreciation for Mexico’s beloved spirit.
Definitely book ahead and consider the prix fixe tasting to sample a flight of different mezcals.
Great way to either kick off or finish up your evening!
SABINA SABE: A favorite among locals and visitors alike, Sabina Sabe is more than just a mezcal bar—it’s a full experience. This stylish yet laid-back spot offers an impressive selection of mezcals, from small-batch rarities to well-loved classics. Their cocktail game is just as strong, with creative mezcal-based drinks that highlight local ingredients. Their food menu is a delight too!
QUIOTE MESCALERIA: Just off walkable Calle José López Álvarez, you’ll find Quiote (up on the second floor). This is another hidden gem for mezcal lovers where the owners have curated an impressive collection of high-quality, small-batch mezcals to savor.
EL HIJUELO: A tiny mezcaleria in the heart of Centro, El Hijuelo keeps things intimate with just a handful of seats, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in expertise. The team here knows their mezcal inside and out, pouring some truly exceptional selections. If you're looking for a low-key spot with top-notch pours, this is it.
SOBRIO BY MEZCAL SPEAKEASY: Also in Centro, Sobrio brings a bit more energy to the mezcal scene. It’s a mezcaleria-meets-bar with a lively atmosphere, often featuring live music. If you’re in the mood for great drinks with a little more buzz, this is the spot.
ARCHIVO MAGUEY AT LIQUEN: For a late-night mezcal experience, head to Archivo Maguey on the first floor of Liquen. Their pour menu is organized by flavor profiles—think lactic, fruity, sour, and more—featuring selections from across Oaxaca and the Mixteca region.
Time to Enjoy Oaxaca City!
Check out our 7-day guide to an incredible week in Oaxaca, as well as our list of best day trips from the city.
Let us know where you eat!
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